The wedding
will be held at Feriye restaurant, which is located in Ortakoy (European
side). See http://www.istanbulinfolink.com/the_bosphorus/ortakoy.htm for
information on Ortakoy. It is easy to get to by taxi, and taxi drivers
worth their salt should know where it is. As a guiding landmark, Feriye
is located near Istanbul’s most famous hotel, Ciragan Sarayi (pronounced
Che-raan) which is also worth a quick look around if you want to see how
the Ottoman elite used to live. Check out http://www.ciraganpalace.com/
for more.
Feriye
reviews
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/istanbul/D39927.html
http://www.ieee-icc.org/2006/index/general-info-d.html
http://travel.yahoo.com/p-reviews-2793205-prod-travelguide-action-read-ratings_and_reviews-i
http://www.tripadvisor.com/GoListDetail-i2837-I_love_good_food.html
Travel
Getting to Istanbul is straightforward, both British Airways and Turkish
Airlines have flights from Heathrow, Stansted and to a lesser degree,
Gatwick. These flights go into Istanbul’s main airport, Ataturk
Airport. Prices range from £100-200 – it really depends on
which websites/agencies you visit. Flight time is usually about 4 hours
and Turkey is two hours ahead.
http://www.ataturkairport.com/eng/index.php
Note: if
you want to fly to another part of Turkey from Istanbul, you’re
best off travelling with Turkish Airlines, as you could fly back to London
from that destination.
There are
many taxis outside the airport, and you rarely have to wait for one. They
are bright yellow, but make sure that there is a big number and letters
on the side, which indicate that it is from an official taxi firm.
Traffic is
notorious in Istanbul – think of Athens, Bangkok, Central London!
Therefore, time and cost of the journey to your hotel is truly dependent
on your flight arrival time. However, as the main airport is on the European
side, it is not too far from Central Istanbul. It is likely to cost about
£20 and normally takes about 30-45 minutes in good traffic.
Easy Jet
also fly into Istanbul’s new airport, which is located on the Asian
side, and is a lot further out than Ataturk airport. It would take between
1-1.5 hours to central Istanbul by public transport and up to one hour
by taxi. Taxi is likely to be expensive, possibly about £50 (maybe
more if you have a evil taxi driver). Use the website to see how to travel
into Istanbul by public transport (NOTE! This involves taking a bus, then
a ferry and then another bus/taxi to your hotel).
http://www.sgairport.com/havaalani/
Accommodation
There are quite literally hundreds of hotels to suit all tastes and budgets.
As a rough guide, Sultanahmet (pron. Sultan-Ahmet) is the area where all
the historic sites are and is probably the best and cheapest area to stay
in. The Taksim Square (pron. Taksim Mey-dani) area is also lively and
has lots of restaurants, bars etc, and it is a transport hub for buses
and taxis. As a suggestion, if a group of friends are going it would be
nice agreeing to stay in the same area ie Sultanahmet, which makes the
logistics of meeting up much easier.
A quick note
on hotels with pools:
Despite the wealth of hotels in Istanbul, there aren’t many with
pools, and those that do are a) tiny, b) indoors, or c) in one of the
5-star hotels, therefore, pricey. If you really want a pool, then Swiss
Hotel has the loveliest outdoor one, the Marmara Hotel has a rooftop one
(but windy!) and its sister hotel, the Marmara Pera has a tiny rooftop
one. However, you can use the Swiss and Marmara hotels through its day
rates.
Getting
around
The links below to the various guides have great information on how to
get around Istanbul. In a nutshell, taxis are moderately priced and by
far the easiest way to get around very quickly (barring the traffic).
Dolmus minibuses (Pron. Doll-mush) are great but if this is your first
trip, they may be difficult to use (if you’re brave, then I recommend
them). Don’t risk the big public buses, I still can’t work
them out. The tram system in Eminonu (near Sultanahmet) is quite good,
and the Metro system is dead easy because it is really short!
Do remember
that the Metro and Tram systems DO NOT travel across Istanbul and are
unlikely to take you directly from A to B if you want to explore Istanbul
(like London Underground). You could be using a combination of different
transport methods in any one journey!
Sightseeing
guides
All the guides list the must see sites, most of which are in Sultanahmet.
Istanbul nightlife is really varied, and I recommend the Taksim, Ortakoy
and Bebek areas for bars and clubs. Restaurants are just as varied, and
you usually get a good meal wherever you are.
http://www.letsgoistanbul.com/
http://travel.guardian.co.uk/tag/istanbul
http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/
http://www.mymerhaba.com/en/main/index.asp
This site is for expats but it is really informative, so well worth a
look.
A guide for
travel within the rest of Turkey: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/main.jhtml?xml=/travel/2007/01/27/etturkey27.xml
Further travel
If you are planning to go on holiday after the wedding, then the usual
travel agencies would have good deals. I have heard great things about
Gulet cruises, which are yachts with your own crew and chef, and you can
share them with friends or even people you don’t know. Otherwise,
I would recommend the following areas (in no particular order of preference
or location): Fethiye, Cesme, Bodrum (for the nightlife) Olu Deniz, Antalya.
Please avoid Marmaris, it is Benidorm with kebabs. It’s easiest
to fly down to the south coast from Istanbul airport. There is not a proper
train system to get around Turkey, but plenty of coaches. However, although
the coaches are clean and cheaper than flying, it would take about 12
hours to drive to the coast.
Try my travel
agent, Salih Ince (no relation!) of Tulip Holidays, Stoke Newington, on
0208 546 2022 for package deals etc.
http://www.tour-turkey.com/index.htm
http://www.tussockcruising.com/uk/index.php
Articles and books on Istanbul, Turkey and the Turks
There is a wealth of fiction and non-fiction on Istanbul. Below are a
few, but by no means exhaustive list – if you know of any good books
on Istanbul, do let me know!
Guide
books
The Time Out and Lonely Planet guidebooks are very good and serve all
purposes, and I also find their websites very informative too. Try:
http://www.timeout.com/travel/istanbul/
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/worldguide/destinations/europe/turkey/istanbul
I would avoid
the trendier guides such as Wallpaper as they aren’t as informative
as the two travel stalwarts. However, if you want to see what the best
bars/ restaurants are, then perhaps worth a look.
Tales from
the Expat Harem, Foreign Women in Modern Turkey, edited by Anastasia M.
Ashman and Jennifer Eaton Gokmen
Recommended! This is a collection of short stories on various experiences
of Turkish life by foreign women who have settled in Turkey. Chapter 4
has different stories on Turkish weddings! The authors also have a website
dedicated to this book, http://www.expatharem.com/,
and this site has a travel section too.
Portrait
of a Turkish Family, by Irfan Orga
An interesting true story of a wealthy Istanbul family who lost everything
during World War One.
Istanbul:
Memories of a City by Orhan Pamuk
The Pulitzer Prize author grew up in Istanbul and recounts his life in
the city.
The
Historian, Elizabeth Kostova
More about Count Dracula than Turkish life, but still has some descriptions
of Istanbul.
Travel
articles
A good selection from the Independent:
http://www.independent.co.uk/search/simple.do?method=navigate&searchKey=210954013&pageNumber=1